Alcohol Magic

$9.99
30 page report on fermenting and distilling alcohol (Ethanol) for fuels. Also information on destructive distillation of cellulosics for methanol, as well as some information about the gasification effect, and some good recipes for gas substitutes. Most race cars use alcohol for fuel, and it is highly preferable all the way around to use it as a fuel, because you can take all that pollution crap right off your car and your exhaust will be mostly carbon dioxide and water! The reason gas is so prevalent is because it was free and easy to the first scalawags, and it has basically allowed a bunch of thugs to become world leaders. Gasoline is the devil itself to produce, and is actually a minor byproduct of cracking petroleum, a thankless and polluting process. Free yourselves and your children, and never again worry about contrived-for-profit gas shortages. Light Happens. A good recipe for Biodiesel is within as well (INCLUDED FREE BELOW).

 

The Super Booster
$15.99

Here are plans to build an easy but very effective audio upgrade for your older or even newer metal detector. The beauty of this device is it converts your audio so that you can use the small lightweight and cheap ceramic speaker headphones versus the clunkers you buy at 80 bux a pop which are really for listening to home stereo with. This device is an amplifier and can be constructed in a couple of hours at the bench. Or quicker even depending on how good you are with a soldering iron. It plugs into the audio output of your metal detector, amplifys the audio signal that goes to your head, and gives you increased sensitivity big-time because you can adjust the tuner much closer to threshold, thereby widening and deepening the field of the metal detector at the coil. You will hear things you never heard before, even with old machines. You will be able to go right behind people and find stuff, even the newer machines. There are devices like this for sale that run in the 100's of bux, so let me show you how you can put one together that works AT LEAST as well for about 15 bux max. If you are a super shopper you can get the parts for your super booster for as little as five $, and some of you will even have the equipment laying around on shelves in your garage, basement or shed. I use older Whites Coinmasters, and I have for about 20 years, and between my knowledge of the machine, and my upgrades to the machine I have consistently gotten greater results than many people with state of the art technology. Not knocking the new detectors, not at all they are awesome, but actually plugging the age old rule ofmetal detecting :"Know Your Machine". I knew the coinmasters were much more powerful than I was capable of realizing at one time, so I hunted up and invented ways to make them better. Thats how I happened across my Super Booster, and I have sold a lot of these plans and those who implement my plans are well rewarded. Never have to deal with clunky headphones again. Buy a new pair for a dollar. Listen and hear the true state of the dirt, by being able to adjust your detector more sensitively, by hearing at another level. Good Luc. Postage is one dollar USA. 20 Pages + pix, Copyright Bill Gallagher1992.  Postage is $1.00 in the USA.

Build a Power-Blower Mailbox for Outboard Motors
$12.95

These are full instructions on how to build a power blower for any outboard motor, as well as necessary precautions to take for different motors and situations; plus good information on how you can put this easy to build efficiency multiplier to work for you. A good power blower on an outboard motor is actually a marine construction tool, when used to its fullest possible measure. With this information you can build from a HUGE a mailbox like Mel Fisher used to recover treasure, all the way down to the smallest unit which is used on an electric trolling motor for shallow water. Have trouble with weedy bottoms at waterfront property? No More. This will clear the bottom in no time. Excellent for use during pollution clean-ups, where junk has been dumped over the years and needs to be uncovered to be removed. This is very handy information to know, and quite profitable if applied correctly. Considering the ease of construction, against the results gained, you will be hard pressed to get better value for your money. For people with good mechanical aptitude. Postage is 2.00 USA. Write with questions.

Click here to see a real cool drawing of a gigantic steam engine used on steamboats.



Model Steam Engine Simplified for Beginners
Can be Used to Run Models!
$16.95
Can be built without a lathe if necessary, and without castings if you have brazing equipment. As built orignally this engine calls for a lathe and castings, but as explained here it can be built up from stock materials and with nothing more elaborate than ordinary hand tools. These are very comprehensive plans with many illustrations and drawings. All materials easily substituted or acquired.

Click Here For A Link About Making A Cheap Oil Burning Heater.
Click Here For A Link About Making A Hand Operated Press Brake/Metal Bender!

CLICK HERE WHEN YOU ARE FINISHED AT AUTODIDACTICS.COM, AND VISIT REDROCK, HOME OF HOMEBREW ENERGY SCHEMES EXTRAORDINAIRE. YOU WILL BE GLAD YOU DID. TELL THEM YOU SAW THE LINK HERE! AND AS ALWAYS, GOOD LUC.



How 2 Make Bio-Diesel FUEL
The manufacture of bio-diesel fuels (Methyl-esters through Transesterification) is just catching on. It is a very simple process and can be done by anyone with a little room, some protective gear, some waste vegetable oil (WVO) or even fresh vegetable oil, and a couple of minor chemicals (Methanol and lye). Methanol is wood alcohol, which can be absorbed through the skin, and cause blindness and nerve damage. Do not risk it, wear rubber gloves, plastic apron, and goggles whenever using chemicals. Seriously.
Lye can be had at most hardware stores, the red devil brand seems to be the preferred type by many bio-diesel makers, though in a pinch lye can be made from scratch, as well as methanol (As you now know from reading Alcohol Magic!), and anything else needed for this fuel.
Here is a recipe for Wood Ash (Potash) Lye: A cylinder like a barrel, with the bottom cut out, placed on a flat stone or tray. There needs to be a means of directing what will flow out of the bottom of the barrel, and it will of course flow from all directions out of the bottom. Place a layer of straw and small branches at the bottom of the barrel and deposit wood ash into this barrel. This operation needs to be sized correctly for expected quantitites and efficiency. It is good if wood ash fills at least 1/3 or so of the barrel/can. Slowly pour water over the ashes until a brownish liquid oozes from the bottom of the barrel. Collect this liquid. It can be dehydrated or cut with water for your individual needs. This chemical is a main ingredient in soap making too.
The main process of making biodiesel is testing the quality of your WVO. This is very necessary. This is called a Titration Process. The condition of your WVO will be effected by amount of time oil has been heated, and what was cooked in it. Fresh oil will take much less of the lye and methanol to work correctly. Hemp seed oil would work great for this I think.
The first thing most people do is obtain the oil and process it through straining. Use cheescloth, or fine mesh to remove all solids from the oil. Heating or warming helps this. Use of the other chemicals (Lye/Methanol) must be undertaken with some care. Overall you are striving for a neutral PH, around 7, but because the two other chemicals in this process will directly alter the Ph of the concoction, the titration test is necessary to evaluate your oil, and to determine just how much of the other chemicals (Again, lye/methanol) to use.
This is how you determine ratios in your process (from the Dancing Rabbit Bio-Diesel Site):
Dissolve one gram NaOH (Sodium Hydroxide -- Red Devil Lye) in 1000 ml (One Litre) of water. This is your NaOH solution.
Dissolve 1 ml of the strained waste vegetable oil in 10 ml Isopropyl Alcohol. (IPA). This is your vegetable oil solution.
With a ml eyedropper, drop the NaOH solution into the vegetable oil solution, one drop at a time. Check with Ph paper between drops. When it reaches a Ph of 8-9, record the number of drops required and calculate quantities upward.
The number of drops of NaOH needed for the vegetable oil solution to reach a Ph of 8-9 is the number of grams of NaOH (Lye) needed to raise the ph per litre of vegetable oil. To this must be added 3.5 grams per litre as a catalyst. So if it takes you six 1 ml drops of NaOH solution to raise your vegetable oil/alcohol solution to a ph of 8-9, then PER LITRE OF WASTE VEGETABLE OIL you will need 6 grams + 3.5 grams=9.5grams of Lye.
Next you must calculate the amount of methanol required to turn the WVO into bio-diesel. This usually falls between 15-20% of the WVO by mass. The best way to do this is to measure out equal amounts of the WVO and the Wood Alcohol (Methanol), weigh each, then calculate exactly what 15% by mass is. Here is an example from Mike Pellys biodiesel page (www.webconx.com/making biodiesel.htm) : If you are trans-ester-ifying 100 litres of WVO, then you will use 15-20 litres of wood alcohol. If unsure its better to go heavy on the wood alcohol, versus not enough.
The methanol is mixed with the lye (The precalculated amount) which creates what is called sodium methoxide. It will get warm during the mixing. The vapors are harmful do not breathe! It will also damage your skin pretty severely and you will not even feel it. Safety equipment is a MUST and plenty of fresh water handy for rinsing. Keep all metal that comes in contact with the lye as clean and dry as possible. This stuff also eats paint off of just about anything, so use plastic glass or stainless steel containers.
Now you mix everything together. Good agitation is a must. A paint stirrer that goes on a large drill, or propellor on a motor is necessary. It has to be a good agitation but not too much -- try not to introduce too many bubbles in it. Make it so there is a vortex just appearing at the surface in the center.
The WVO should be heated also to 120-130 degrees, although in some places on hot days a black drum can be left in the sun and will reach high enough temp to do the job.
While agitating the solution, add the lye/methanol solution over 50 mins to an hour. The reaction will generally be finished in 30 mins or so but the extended time is desirable.
After mixing and adding the lye/methanol mix, let the drum stand and cool for 8 hours at least. At the bottom of the drum is the glycerine by-product, it is dark brown. The biodiesel will float on top and is honey/yellow colored. Many remove the glycerine by means of a drain at the bottom of the barrel but skimming or dipping will work well to get the vast majority of the biodiesel out of the drum, as well as siphoning, or pouring very carefully. Do not allow any of the contaminants at the bottom of the barrel to flow out with the biodiesel. Finally, it should be possible many times to siphon the biodiesel out of the drum too. The glycerin can be composted after allowing the methanol to evaporate off for few weeks. Or it can be reclaimed and made into soaps and other useful things. Search the web for all that info.
There are several different ways to get the fuel usable from this point on, and the most simple is to let it settle for about a week or ten days. This allows any soap residues to coagulate. Once this has been done, filter the biodiesel well as it flows into the tank for use, and do not use any discolored layers at the bottom of the barrel. The end product should have a Ph of around 7 (Neutral) and it should be clear, tinted light brown.
There are many other ways of Washing and Drying biodiesel, and if you are interested visit Mike Pellys site or other biodiesel sites on the internet. Many have been shut down by big petro interests, but more crop up every day. One of the few drawbacks of using biodiesel is that it tends to be hard starting during cold weather. This can be remedied in a number of ways, though the simplest is to mix with petroleum/fossil derived diesel fuel. This site hosted by COMPWEBTECH.COM
For the best deal in internet hosting and much more write to Larry at larry@compwebtech.com tell him you saw the info here.

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